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Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition, by John Roskelley
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In 1976, John Roskelley joined a joint American-Indian expedition to climb Nanda Devi, a 26,645-foot peak in India's remote northwest frontier. The team of 13 climbers tackled the unclimbed Northwest Face, a spectacular wall of rock buttresses and snow and ice fields, and overcame monsoon storms and massive avalanches down the face. Roskelley's narrative details the expedition conception to end, from selecting the team and traveling through northern India to climbing the route and all the controversies that developed with the team. What unfolded during this climb was a story of strong emotion, conflicting ambitions, death and victory, desire and regret.
- Sales Rank: #1828165 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Stackpole Books
- Published on: 1987-10-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.50" h x 6.50" w x .75" l,
- Binding: Hardcover
- 239 pages
- Used Book in Good Condition
From Library Journal
American mountaineer Willi Unsoeld, upon seeing 25,645-foot Nanda Devi in the Indian Himalayas in 1949, vowed to name his first daughter after the mountain. Twenty-seven years later he returned as co-leader of an expedition organized by his daughter to climb the peak. Nanda Devi died on her namesake mountain during the expedition. It took team member and lead climber Roskelley ten years to tell the story of this expedition, and it is a very emotional and moving one. Not only is it an account of the tragedy, but it is also a tale of the day-to-day toil of high altitude mountaineering, of the physical suffering and the mental strain of moving eleven climbers, dozens of porters, two government liaisons, and tons of food and equipment up a difficult route in a foreign land. (Photos not seen.) Recommended. Thomas K. Fry, UCLA Libs.
Copyright 1987 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From the Back Cover
This is the story of an American-Indian expedition to Nanda Devi, the second highest peak in India, and Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the daughter of Willi Unsoeld, who made the first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest with Tom Horbein in 1963. The free-spirited, 22-year old Nanda Devi, who was named after the mountain, convinced her father and Ad Carter, a former member of the 1936 first ascent team with Tillman and Odell, to lead the expedition. Unsoeld's and Carter's selection of a climbing team with vast differences in experience, and their choice of the techincally difficult and dangerous route on the Northwest Face almost proved to be too much for the team to overcome. John Roskelley is out-spoken and honest about an expedition that unraveled in the face of adversity, pulled itself together under torturous circumstances to fulfill its ambitions and goals, yet ended tragically high on the mountain. He speaks with the wisdom and authority of tireless dedication and grueling preparedness. This is a story not to be forgotten.
About the Author
Author and photographer John Roskelley is a dabbler in everthing outdoors. If he's not dodging rocks on some alpine face in Canada or scratching his way up a frozen waterfall, John can be found hunting pheasants along the breaks of the Snake River or paddling the Columbia from source to mouth. Adventuring flows in his blood. In his first half century, John fought his way up four of the highest peaks on earth, including K2 and Everest, plus a plethora of devilishly hard, unclimbed Himalayan mountain faces and ridges.
John's occupation changes as frequently as the weather. A graduate of Washington State University in geology, he's worked as a geologist, a marking consultant, an elected Spokane County commissioner, and a governor appointee to the Washington State Growth Management Hearings Board. Through the years, he has written four books and numerous national magazine articles. His photography has been on the cover of National Geographic and other national magazines.
John lives in Spokane, Washington with his wife, Joyce. They have been married since 1972 and have three wonderful and productive kids, Dawn, Jess, and Jordan.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A tragic tale very well written with no excess analysis or description........what a time that decade was.....
By Just a guy in Oregon
OK, I'm a climber. I climbed all the major Cascade peaks and a few small ones too. I read this book when it was first published in the late 70s I guess....and, being around her age, fell hopelessly in love at a distance with Nanda Devi Unsoeld. I even met her and her dad once. Just a guy from Oregon was a good amateur climber but NOTHING compared to this pair. The book is riveting but may require a bit of backgrounding if the reader is unfamiliar with climbing. It could be argued that Nanda Devi did not have to die. However, looking at the personalities of both her and her ultra driven father that is actually not true. It had to happen as it did. She went to that mountain and was sacrificed to her father's ego. So I read it again after decades and now have two copies....the other is packed away somewhere........I highly recommend this book. It still made me cry. Devi deserved better.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Lessons in leadership...
By HMS Warspite
John Roskelley's "Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition" is a brutally honest narrative of the 1976 American-Indian climb of 25,000 foot Nanda Devi in Northwest India. The expedition never came together as a cohesive group, leading to endless arguments en route to and on the mountain, and perhaps contributing to the death of Nanda Devi Unsoeld, daughter of expedition co-leader Willi Unsoeld and named for the mountain itself.
Roskelley's description of the effort to bring a team together, gather the necessary equipment, and move it to Base Camp in India contains the early signs of trouble. The expedition co-leaders seemed unwilling to assert themselves. Perhaps worse, the expedition members did not share a common climbing philosophy. Team "A", of which Roskelley was a founding member, was focused on summitting the mountain. Team "B" seems to have entertained the notion that the trip was the adventure, with reaching the summit a seemingly secondary objective. Whatever the merits of the respective approaches, they were incompatible in the same expedition and left Team B less mentally prepared for the horrendous challenges of the actual climb.
Roskelley's description of the approach march into the remote valley at the base of Nanda Devi is fascinating. The actual climb makes for exciting reading; the expedition worked under marginal weather conditions on an untried and extremely dangerous route up the Northwest Ridge of Nanda Devi. Team A repeatedly pushes the pace, alternately bullying and shaming Team B to participate in placing camps higher on the mountain. Several climbers suffer from illness and crises of confidence. One sick climber is evacuated; another quits. In retrospect, Team B's misgivings about the route were well-taken; Roskelley describes a series of hair-raising pitches over difficult rock in poor weather and under constant threat of avalanche. Only some superb mountaineering overcomes the challenges and places three men on top. A second summit team which included Devi Unsoeld moved to the top camp but turned back when Devi sickened and died at the 24,000 foot level.
Roskelley's candid commentary appears to have been adapted from his diary entries and letters; the story is told day by day, without undue foreshadowing of the outcome.
Leadership challenges should not have been unexpected given the fierce will, competitiveness and self-confidence required to climb at high altitude. The failure to pick a more balanced team might have been the first failure of leadership. The reluctance by the expedition leaders to impose organization led to a second major failure: rolling chaos in the creation and supply of the various camps and in constant bickering over assignments. In retrospect, the lack of leadership created a third failure: a situation in which an unwell and unacclimatized Devi Unsoeld was allowed to proceed on a summit attempt against the expressed better judgement of the expedition doctor and several more experienced climbers.
Roskelley's multiple epilogues underline the hard feelings that followed the expedition. Death at altitude is a common hazard of the sport; unnecessary death made all the bickering less forgiveable. Although not within the scope of this book, an account by a member of Team "B" would be of interest in providing "the rest of the story."
This book is highly recommended to those interested in high altitude mountaineering and to those interested in some lessons in leadership.
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Tragedy and Conflict
By Rick Spell
This is an exceptional book detailing a famous and tragic climb up Nanda Devi. What makes this book exceptional is not the detail of the tragedy but rather the lack of teamwork in this expedition and the author's role in the conflict. The closing remarks also frame the danger in being a high altitude climber as eventually 4 of the 13 members of this team die on the mountains in later years.
This expedition had two leaders, uncommon for high altitude expeditions. Initial meetings detail disagreements in selection of climbers and goals for the climb. With no clear leader, these initial disagreements festered on the mountain and contributed to the partial failure of the expedition. But the unique perspective of this book is that the author appears to be the central antagonist in the disagreements. Now clearly, he writes from his perspective and supports his position in a no compromise, "perfection" oriented climbing method. But it's clear these conflicts are partially his fault as he has minimal compromising capabilities which exasperates the team leaders. I've never read a climbing adventure so centered on a conflict that ends in such tragic proportions.
The characters on this climb are expertly described by the author and the expedition is described in detail. I hesitate to provide details of the climb so you might enjoy the excitement in the read but suffice to say, the most compelling human being on the mountain ends up in the most precarious fate. Read this book if you enjoy climbing or tales of adventure. You will not be disappointed.
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